Saturday, March 30, 2013

Getting Around, Dominican Style

It has taken me a couple of weeks to gather my thoughts about public transportation in the Dominican Republic. As promised, here are my dos pesos about getting around in the DR.

Speaking of pesos, the current exchange rate is somewhere around 40 pesos to the dollar. So you can see the costs of each transportation option.

First, we have the guagua. Those of you who speak Spanish are probably wondering what a baby has to do with public transportation. The answer is nothing. In the DR, guagua means bus. I have no idea why but that's what it is. Most guaguas are 20+ years old. I have yet to be in one with a/c and dear lord its hot in there. They are mostly mini buses that are designed to hold about 15 people but are often stuffed to the door with patrons trying to get to their final destination. There is no such thing as personal space on a guagua. I've had people on my lap, I've been on stranger's laps, my backpack has been tossed on the dashboard in front of the driver, and rows that are designed for 4 people often seat 5+ and a baby. Or a chicken. And this includes in the front bench next to the driver. And behind him. Anything to get another person on the guagua. The cobrador (money collector) hangs out the door yelling the route of the guagua and assists passengers to get on and off. The bus stops any and everywhere, one must yell "dejame" or "me quedo aqui" when they need to exit. This is both good and bad. It's good because you get let off exactly where you need to be but it's bad because the rides can take forever. The cobrador might go for a walk at one stop and the bus waits for him. If the driver sees a friend of his, of course he stops to chat. I've even seen drivers stop to buy a beer. As of a few days ago this is illegal as the open container while driving law was just passed. I feel good about it. The best way to catch a guagua? Hold out your arm and vigorously flick you wrist. Most rides cost 25 or 30 pesos.

The next option which is ideal for shorter distances or traveling where a guagua may not go is a carro publico. I'm pretty sure someone donated thousands of 1980 Toyota corollas to the transportation system here. They are tired, sometimes barely functioning automobiles. They must be doing something right in order to keep them running though. These carros are a bit trickier as the safe ones have a green or yellow painted roof and a seal on the door. If thy don't, there's a good chance you are gonna get robbed. Not advisable. Seating arrangements are as follows:
2 passengers in the front seat. Doesn't matter is you are male or female big or little. Always 2.
4 passengers across the back seat. Yes, it's tight. The person third in from the right door is to lean forward in order to make room for the other 3 to shut the doors. Windows are always open so it's imperative that you put your belongings on the floor so they don't get snatched. Carros also stop wherever you want along their scheduled route, just say when. Carros publicos cost 25 pesos.
Then we have private taxis. These are much nicer, usually have air conditioning and do not allow for 6 passengers in addition to the driver. They are also quite a bit more expensive. As peace corps volunteers we are not allowed to use public transport after 7pm, so this is our option for travel at night. Price can definitely be negotiated and to avoid the gringo tax we must point out that we live here.

Last, the motoconcho. A motorcycle that is designed for 2 people but I have seen the accommodate families of 4 and the dog. Or a refrigerator, gas tank or flock of chickens. They do not have to abide by ANY traffic signs, lights or lanes. They weave traffic and run lights. In Santo Domingo we are not allowed to ride motorcycles, but outside of cities it's a very common and reliable form of transportation. Peace corps was gracious enough to provide us with helmets - the DR is the only country in the world where PCVs can ride motorcycles. Motos usually cost around 50-75 pesos.

If you're really strapped for cash you can try to get a bola. A bola is a free ride usually acquired by sophisticated hitch hiking tactics. I've only had one bola since I've been here and it was from some American missionaries in a minivan. But hey, a free ride is a free ride when you're a volunteer!

So the transportation here is a little unorganized. But ya know what? It works. There's no complicated subway map to read, no route to figure out. You just get on a guagua or car going in the right direction and you're set. Most Dominicans you sit next to are more than happy to discuss the weather, politics or new york so there's hardly ever a boring ride and you never know who you'll meet!

Saludos, Kaley






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